Things take a turn for the better when one enters the land of thunder dragon aka Bhutan. People who have their heads buried in electronic gadgets till now cannot resist to keep their eyes off the scenic beauty all around. Not only the valleys and crystal clear rivers enchants ones emotions but the warmth of the locals also make the place worth visiting.
The Plan (on a budget)
Technology is in charge of our emotions. We are driven by the tring of smart phones and the tap-tap of laptops, which do all the thinking for us.
With a penchant for mountains, Sakshi and I were on the lookout to spend her birthday month in a place which involved less of travelling and more of relaxing (and on a budget!). A couple of locations popped in our head – Sri Lanka, Jordan etc but all these seemed to be too well connected to the outer world. Until one day we stumbled upon Bhutan. With only the Royal Bhutan Airlines & Druk Air running flights to and fro the only international airport in the country (Paro), it seemed an ideal option which fit our conditions.
The initial planning involved booking the start and end date airlines tickets. Since the trip was being planned on such a short notice, the direct flights from Delhi to Paro were comparatively costly. We decided to fly to the nearest airport in India (Bagdogra) and travel by road from there to the border town of Jaigon (known as Phuentsholing on the Bhutan side).
For foreign nationals, immigration check points are available at Phuentsholing and at Paro (if you plan to come to Bhutan by air). The immigration involves filling an application form (available at the immigration office) along with confirmed stay bookings at either Paro/Thimphu for initial days. A copy of the passport and two passport size photographs also to be attached with the form. A detailed information is present on this page. Click to visit.
We had in mind a 5-6 days trip with sojourns planned in Paro & Haa Valley. We were there to enjoy and relax and hence did not want to rush to places unprepared. We booked hotel/bnb online and only left the local commuting to be booked on the spot.
We were also carrying certain ready to eat meals for just-in-case moments.
Tip: The mobile network is patchy in Bhutan. But, local sims are available at counter in the immigration office in Phuentsholing and cost Nu 110 (Indian rupees 110). Avoid buying sim from local shops in the market area as they generally lap up heavy margins.
The Trip
Saturday, 9th March, 2019
We landed in Bagdogra at around 1500 hrs and immediately went to the prepaid taxi stand to book a cab for the nearest bus stand in NJP (Siliguri/New Jalpaiguri). Taxi drivers informed that although buses ply every hour from Siliguri to Jaigaon, it take around 5-6 hours to reach. With the border gates closing for vehicular movement at 8pm BST (BST is +30 mins of IST) it would be cutting it too close. We reserved a taxi instead from the local taxi stand for 2300 INR which would drop us to our hotel in phuentsholing in 3.5 hours.
With a couple of tea and snack breaks in between and railway crossings eating away precious time, the driver still ensured that we reached Bhutan on time. The driver was friendly but the ride was like a roller coaster considering the lack of time on our hand.
For the night we had food packed with us for the journey. We gobbled up and crashed for the night.
There is a local crocodile park and a temple to visit in Phuentsholing. Or if you are in the mood, you can walk and explore the town which is exactly what we did on the next day. We crossed towards the Jaigaon side and had a sumptuous meal in one of the most unassuming places. We highly recommend the place for the authentic aloo parathas and masala dosa.
We inquired with locals regarding the immigration office timings, checked up on the local bus timings for buses towards Thimphu and asked the taxi fare at local taxi stand. Since we were not sure on how much time it would take to complete the ‘Entry Permit’ formalities on the next day, we preferred to book the bus on the spot. It takes around 6 hours to travel from Phuentsholing to Thimphu.
Tip: It is preferred to book a bus before you wish to travel from Phuentsholing to Thimphu as they fill up really fast. We learnt it the hard way.
Monday 11th March, 2019
At 9 am we queued up at the immigration office adjacent Hotel Druk at the town square. The formalities took an hour or so and we purchased a local sim from the counter inside the office. We already knew the buses had filled up and the next bus would depart at around 10:30 am. We thought it to be futile to wait for the next bus, instead we hired two seats in a cab for INR 750 each which would drop us to Thimphu. Considering that we were saving time which we could utilize someplace else, we did not bat an eyelid and hopped onto the ride.
The ride was one of the most enjoyable car rides with views of towering mountains expanding into the horizons, small hamlets strewn on the hillside in a distance and seasonal waterfalls with a tumultuous drop. All this gave a surreal feeling.
We halted for a quick lunch break. Apprehensive about what to order, Sakshi overheard some people ordering poori subzi. Reconfirming what she heard with the manager at the roadside hotel, she ordered a plate of the quintessential poori subzi.
I ordered a bowl of soupy noodles which were spicy to say the least. We were prepared to encounter chillies in our meal, but boy oh! boy was it spicy?! I can only say that my esophagus has seen better days.
On the way we decided to get the ‘Route Permit’ for other destinations (Haa Valley & Punakha) in our trip. Remember that the immigration office in Thimphu closes at 1700 hrs. Its better to complete the formalities and then get on with exploring the capital city. Situated in the valley of the Thimphu Chhu / Wang Chu, it is a modern city with offices for all government departments. A must visit place is the Tashichho Dzong which is a Buddhist Monastery and a fortress built on the northern side of the city.
A unique view point is built on the mountain slopes overlooking the Eastern Part of the city, called the Buddha Dordenma. It was built to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the fourth King of Bhutan. The unique statue complex houses thousands of small Buddha statues. All the statues are made in bronze and gilded in gold.
Our taxi driver took us to this point over looking the city which made us skip a beat. The serene and calming experience with panoramic vistas of the city below kept us glued to one spot. Unfortunately the dying light and the rumbling in our stomachs forced us to go.
Avoiding the hustle bustle of the city, we categorically booked our Hotel in Babena district on the northern edge of Thimphu, away from the city centre through Airbnb. Our host Dipan was extremely welcoming and even picked us up after we had savored pizza and pasta at a local restaurant in Thimphu.
Dipan offered to experience a unique “Hot Stone Bath” where stones from the river bed are heated on a traditional wood fire and put into water spiced with local herbs from the mountains. We jumped on the offer.
It is said that the minerals trapped inside the stones are released into the water which give the water a distinct red color. With medicinal benefits aplenty, it sure does helps in relaxing the muscles. An hour of hot stone bath costed us INR 1000 bucks but was totally worth it.
During a casual chat on the way back after experiencing the hot stone bath, I asked Dipan on the modes of travel to Punakha. We had hotel booking from next day in Paro and wanted to cover Punakha during the day. Dipan was kind enough to offer his personal motorcycle on rent and we had ourselves a customized road trip for the next day! (I did not sleep due to the excitement that night! :-P)
Tuesday, 12th March, 2019
With formalities out of the way, Sakshi & I were provided with the protective gear for our road trip to Punakha. The plan was to climb towards Dochula Pass, finish the entry at the check post and halt at Dochula Pass. Enjoy the views and carry forward towards Punakha Dzong.
The silky smooth tarmac was a delight to ride on. The landscape had both of us gaping in joy and wonder. By the time we had reached Dochula, our thrill of what lay ahead in store for us had no bounds!
The feeling of entering Punakha Valley cannot be described in words. The rustling of leaves in the cool mountain breeze, the burbling of the river stream over stones creating ripples of water and the sheer absence of any humans. It all created a euphony for the senses. Without a word spoken between us, we stopped at a view where wild horses were cantering towards the pristine clear waters to enjoy and let the time slip by.
We reached Punakha Dzong at 1400 hrs only to find the gates closed from 1300 hrs to 1500hrs. With another spot on our to do list, we headed towards the longest suspension bridge in Bhutan. Its a short 15 mins walk from the Punakha Dzong further upstream on the river. The view of the bridge is surely intimidating initially but once you walk over it its fairly stable and rigid.
There I had one of the best momos coupled with spring onion and red chilli paste chutney. The girl serving the momos was from a village nearby. She requested to taste the momos may be once but my stomach being a bottomless pit, I devoured on two plates. In my defense, they were lip-smacking.
Soon it was time to head back to visit the Punakha Dzong. So much full of the surrounding views, the Punakha Dzong, although majestic in its own right, paled in comparison.
We started our journey back with memories of a place completely untouched by technology and yet so progressive and respectful of the people around them. Not a single instance during our road trip did we feel threatened or doubtful to be visiting a foreign land for the first time. The warmth took away my heart. Oh, and except for clicking photos we had not used our phones even once till now!
Sun sets usually early in the mountains. Thimphu being no exception, we started contemplating whether to stay back in Babena for the night or head to Paro. We contacted our host in Paro only to find him in Phuentsholing picking up critical supplies for his pet project (more on that later!) . We discussed our situation with Dipan, who was generous enough to allow us to stay for the night with no extra cost. We politely declined his offer but still needed a means to reach Paro valley which was 1 hour drive from T/Phu. Anand (Dipan’s Hotel manager) was quick enough to arrange for a taxi ride which would take us and drop us off at our next destination in Paro. We reached our homestay in Paro.
We were greeted by the chirpy and joyful Tshering (our host) at the doorstep and shown our room for the next two days. No matter how much I write in this blog post, the experience we had at Paro Village View Homestay cannot be described in words.
We were offered warm tea the moment we entered. Sakshi & Tshering hit it off soon and their talks just wouldn’t end. The talks transcended over dinner which hit us like a rock (in a good way!) The authentic Bhutanese delicacies were prepared with warmth and it showed (read: tasted) We were famished and one could tell by the gargantuan amounts of food we were gobbling down.
Tshering was patient and attentive to our needs. With Nima out in Phuentsholing, she was happily filing in for Nima as well. She arranged a taxi for next day for a round trip to experience the famous hike up the Tiger’s Nest and ensured we were tucked in cozily into our beds soon after the dinner.
Wednesday, 13th March, 2019
Early morning we were dropped to the starting point of the trek to Paro Takhtsang better known as Tiger’s Nest. We were told that the trek is moderately difficult. We started our trek which was a mix of mountain rocks, and smooth trails to steep inclines at some places. At the mid point of the trek, there is a small restaurant cum resting place where hikers can rest and eat. We did not stop there and continued our climb to the next part which involves a steep climb leading to the steps with the Tiger’s nest monastery in clear view. The magnificent Tiger’s nest compels one to think how it could have been built stone by stone at such height with the monastery dangling from the face of a cliff. Truly a masterpiece.
Tip: Souvenirs and locally made items can be bought from the shops at the starting point of the trek. It is usually cheaper than to buy them from Thimphu / Paro town or other places of your stay in Bhutan. We confirmed at many places before we bought them from there. A good decision in the end.
After an uneventful climb down from the monastery, we contacted our driver and told him to take us to a place to eat. Sakshi was craving for Indian cuisine and we had passed a dhaba on our way to the trek. Our driver also recommended we eat there. Paro Dhaba sure did not disappoint us. We ordered tandoori rotis, dal makhani and mixed vegetables. Sakshi got herself a tall glass of buttermilk and I chose lemonade to replenish the fluids in our body. The dhaba is set right alongside the Paro river with the sweet sound of the river filling our ears while we ate our meals. The trek was refreshing (for me at least) and presented a viewpoint not touched upon.
While discussing as to why it’s (Tiger’s nest) built at such a treacherous spot on the mountain side, our driver informed that people believe when one commits a sin in life. He should not be able to ask for forgiveness or come to pray to the monastery without undergoing physical and mental strain in the form of the climb. To give them time to look back on their deeds while they climb, it offers a perspective into the way Buddhists think regarding wrong doings.
We came back at around 1500 hrs and recouped with a long and deep slumber. In the evening, we met with Nima. During the chat, he suggested not to spend two nights in Haa Valley as it is a very small place with nothing much to do except for leisure walks through the town. He urged us to stay with them for two more nights and experience a one off local festival which starts from just near their homestay. Initially we were skeptical to change our plan drastically but then we saw the futility of staying in Haa Valley and doing nothing. In hindsight I am glad we decided to stay back.
The location of the home stay is picturesque. With the home stay surrounded by apple trees in all directions and paddy fields visible in the valley below, one does not want to wander away from this place. Nima also informed how he is constructing a separate cottage with rooms to cater to other guests (and hence the supplies purchases from Phuentsholing!). He offered us to experience hot stone bath with a view of the night sky after our tiring day, which we did not refuse. Instead of the one hour 1000 bucks, we ended up being in the bath for more than two hours, it infused a strange sense of contentment in us. The day had ended on a high note.
Thursday, 14th March 2019
Sakshi & I overslept the next day. We woke up lazily and roamed around through Paro town.
The crisp mountain air whets your appetite. I was no stranger to this feeling and soon my eyes fell on a place called the momo corner at the Paro town square. The smell of freshly prepared thukpa and the sight of steaming momos were enough to make us wait around 10 minutes until finally food was served. For a thinly populated area, it was being frequented by a lot of people during the time we stayed there.
With our bellies full we walked the length and breadth of the town. One can visit the local museums, the Paro Dzong and spend some time relishing the impressive architecture at display.
After a long afternoon we headed back to our homestay and relaxed for the day. Nima suggested to go for a day excursion to Haa valley through Chele La Pass (the highest motorable road in Bhutan) on the next day. He arranged for a taxi at INR 3000 for the day excursion.
Friday, 15th March 2019
On our ride to the Chele La Pass, we passed massive blue alpines looming over our head while we climbed up and up. Soon the mountain slopes were covered with snow. Wild yaks, tended by their herders, grazed without a hint of concern for us passers by. At the top of Chele La pass, the strong and icy winds were piercing through our layers of clothing. A food truck sorts which sold maggi and hot coffee provided the much needed respite from the biting cold. The Himalayan mountains standing tall in all directions begged us to stay a while longer but we had Haa valley to explore.
Haa valley was quiet and peaceful and a bit cold compared to Paro. The town was small with Indian Army camp dominating the majority of the valley.
There are plenty of small hamlets situated in & around the Haa Valley. One can take a leisurely stroll around and enjoy the azure skies with the tall alpines cover or take a small hike up any mountain slope and relax for the day.
There is a view point, which gives the view of the complete Haa Valley, situated before one enters the Haa valley on the way from Chele La Pass.
After enjoying a walk along the Haa Chhu river and savoring some food that we bought along , we headed back to Paro.
Saturday, 16th March 2019
Our hosts informed the importance of Paro Tshechu in Bhutanese culture. The pre-festivities commences with mask dances at the Dzongdrakha Monastery which is situated close by to the Paro Village View Home stay. On this day, we witnessed people dressing up with finest of clothing. Nima informed that dress cost more than INR 1 lacs in some cases. Irrespective of the value of the dresses worn by people, locals from all walks of were found in the congregation. Sakshi & I witnessed truly magical as the masked dancers performed in harmony.
Our hosts, Nima & Tshering, were warm, welcoming, loving, caring. Not a single moment we felt out of place or in another country. It felt as if we were living with our own family. They helped us plan the next leg of our journey and made us experience the pre-festivities of Paro Tshechu.
In addition to masked dancers, we saw people got their own food, there were games and we even found the delectable golguppas/pani puris and savored a couple of plates. It was more like a picnic than a festival. There was no place else me & Sakshi wanted to be.
But as all good things must come to an end, as we had a booking in Phuentsholing for that night, we had to leave in the afternoon and leave the festivities behind. Nima was kind enough to drop us to the taxi stand in the town where we got a shared taxi ride till Phuentsholing.
Sunday, 17th March 2019
On talking to people while having our dinner in Phuentsholing, we gathered that there is a railway station, called Hasimara, approx. 15kms from Bhutan border on the Indian side. We planned to take a train ride back to NJP. Searched for tickets and reserved two.
Packed up and reserved an auto rickshaw in the morning from the Indian side of the border. The rickshaw took INR 200 and the tickets costed INR 350 per person. The roads on the way back were lined with tea estates for as far as the eyes could see. With the doars famous for its tea estates, it was no surprise for the fragrance filled our nostrils.
The train was to take us directly to NJP. With a travel time of 2.5hrs, we had plenty of time to have lunch in the town and then head to the airport for our evening flight back to Delhi.
Even while i am writing this blog, my mind is still wandering at some or the other place in Bhutan. There is a sense of contentment which has overpowered every other emotions. The locals, their ever smiling faces, the care and respect towards travellers and the overall atmosphere as soon as you enter Bhutan, all this entices a myriad of emotions in a person.
How to:
Travel
- By Air – Kolkata / Delhi to Paro. Royal Bhutan Airlines & Druk Air run this service.
- By Air – Kolkata/Delhi to Bagdogra & By Road – Bagdogra to Jaigaon/Phuentsholing
- Take taxi / bus ride of 5-6 hrs from Bagdogra to Jaigaon/Phuentsholing.
- By Air – Kolkata/Delhi to Bagdogra & By Rail – NJP to Hasimara & By Road – Hasimara to Jaigaon/Phuentsholing
- Take a train ride of 2.5 hrs from Bagdogra to Hasimara. Hire one of the many autorickshaws which take you in 30 mins to Jaigaon/Phuentsholing.
Where to:
Stay
Thimphu – Hotel Lhaki Yangchuk Residency (Recommended), Hotel Amodhara, Hotel Phuensho Pelri, Hotel Pedlin, Hotel Wangchuk, Hotel Kisa
Paro – Paro Village View Homestay (Recommended), Hotel Olathong, Hotel Metta Resort, Hotel Dewachen Resort, Hotel Tashi Phuntshok
Punakha – Hotel Damchen (in Kuruthang), Hotel Metta Resort, Hotel Dewachen Resort, Hotel Tashi Phuntshok
Sight-see
Thimphu – Buddha Dordenma, Smtokha Dzong, Memorial Chorten, Tashichho Dzong
Paro – Taktsang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest), Bhutan National Museum, Rinpung Dzong, (aka Paro Dzong), Paddy Fields view from Dzongdrakha Monastery
Punakha – Chimi Ljakhang, Punakha Dzong, Suspension Bridge
Haa Valley – Lhakhang Karpo, IMTRAT
Hope You Enjoyed Reading this Blog.
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